New Ötztal Ice & New Solo Winter Climb

22. Februar 2019NowNo Comments

This past ice climbing season I’ve opened three new routes in the backyard of my home beside some fun days of repeating existing routes in the Alps and climbing the ice of the Hyalite Canyon near Bozeman/Montana with David Göttler. Enjoy some info and pics of the new routes below. All routes were opened without bolts and the used pitons had been left in-situ.

 

»Sevlstauda« (WI5+/M4/A1)
Sometimes you need to be in the right place at the right time, especially when the thin ice line is facing the sun. A new, four pitches long mixed climb (120m, WI5+/M4/A1) at Nösslachwand. The line was only climbable for one day.

 

»Mammut Lex« (WI5+/M6)
Mammut Lex (80m, WI5+/M6) a unique, little pearl located just to the right of the still unrepeated „Elfenbein“ (110m, WI7-/M6), which by the way was in perfect conditions this season. The upper part of Elefantenwand normally offers great ice conditions until March.

 

»Gegenwind« (WI5+/M8)
Tried this line already four years ago but just back from a knee injury things were not feeling right. This year I came back with Alex Blümel. Intense day of establishing the first two out of three pitches. Climbed the line a week later, accompanied by Tobi Holzknecht. Three pitches long climb to the left of this years superfat Rätselburg near the village Aschbach. Gegenwind (90m, WI5+, M8) offers some great climbing protected by gear and some medium-quality pitons and bird beaks.

 

»Rofele Wand« – Northwest Face (6-/A1) – Solo
On February 27 I’ve opened a possible new route on the 500m high Northwest Face of Rofele Wand (3354m) in the Ötztal Alps alone. Great conditions during the last days of this amazing good weather period in the Alps. Ideal for a winter ascent. Difficulties up to 6-/A1. Actually I’ve planned for a bivy but then pushed for one day. Adventurous, wild alpine face and a intense and long day out.