The Music of Hope
Finally I managed to finish off another project on Kristallwand. A steep rock face hidden in Gaisbergtal in the Ötztal Alps, which is mainly charactarized by chossy rock, just a few obvious lines and a really steep overhang.
After I made the first ascent of „The Music of Chance“ (6c/A3/500m) in winter 2012, I came back with David Lama last January to attempt a new and more free climbable line to the right without using bolts. Steep terrain, really loose flakes and some bad whippers forced us to retreat at half height. “We didn´t want to come back after that first try. Without taking a lot of risk you won’t climb that line. The Masherbrum Project was at stake.”
Nevertheless I was thinking a lot if it would make sense to come back in summer for another attempt. My vision to open this line without bolts was still in my mind. I asked my friend Gerri Fiegl to join me. On 9th of September, after 9 nerve-wracking hours of climbing and 12 pitches, shrouded in mist and clouds we were on top.
Name: ’The Music of Hope’ (7a/A1/500m)
Location: Kristallwand at Kirchkogel (3280m) – Ötztal Alps
Protection: mainly Bird Beaks, no bolts
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- David during the first attempt in winter.
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- Me leading on really tricky terrain during the first attempt.
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- Exposed.
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- Right before the bad whipper, whiched forced us to turn back.
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- Third pitch of ‚The Music of Hope‘.
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- One of the most demanding pitches during the first ascent.
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- Great view.
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- Bad protection, loose rock, steep climbing.
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- Looking down high up on the wall.
